FOOD FEATURE:
Gazpacho: The World in a Blender
CONNECT CONTINENTS AND CULTURES WITH CRUNCH
WRITTEN BY SHELLEY SKILES SAWYER
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYLE RIPLEY, HAIGWOOD STUDIOS Perhaps no better example of eating globally on a local scale exists than gazpacho. Originating from the Andalusia region in southern Spain, it’s basically raw, fresh produce that has been transformed into a soup and served cold. While most of us associate gazpacho with tomatoes, the original execution had none. “That version didn’t exist until the Spaniards came to the New World,” explains Zach Meloy, executive chef and co-owner of Better Half. “Until then, gazpacho had been made with almonds, bread and grapes. They didn’t even have tomatoes. When the Spaniards came back [with their edible New World finds], they doubled the European larder.”
Globetrotting morphed that original Andalusian “white gazpacho” into soups showcasing the fresh, seasonal produce available wherever the soup is made, be it red, green, yellow or even pink. “I like strawberry gazpacho,” says Meloy. “It’s like you want tomato gazpacho, but can’t wait [for summer tomatoes], so you make it with strawberries.” “I saw some beautiful ripe, yellow tomatoes at the farmer‘s market and remembered the first time I ate yellow tomato gazpacho about 25 years ago. It was in Cala d‘Or, a small village on the east coast of Majorca,” recalls Christophe Joignant, executive chef of Capital City Club. Lucky for members and their guests, he still had the recipe for what is now a seasonal favorite at the Brookhaven club. In Midtown, MetroFresh serves about half a dozen soups daily, and during the summer, some form of gazpacho is almost always one of them. “We do all sorts of different gazpachos, like tomato, mango, white grape, peach and a tropical one with pineapple,” says owner and founder Mitchell Anderson. “It’s exactly what we like to offer: super flavorful, really healthy, seasonal food. A typical gazpacho can be very low in calories. I don’t use any oil in mine.” Excerpt is from an article featured in the summer issue of Flavors Magazine, subscribe today and don't miss a single issue! |
Yellow Tomato Gazpacho
Recipe by Christophe Joignant, Executive Chef, Capital City Club
Yield: 15-20 appetizer servings 2 yellow bell peppers, seeded, de-ribbed and coarsely chopped 2 cucumbers, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped 1/2 yellow onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 1/2 cup chopped celery 2 cloves garlic, peeled and cleaned 6 yellow tomatoes, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped 1/2 cup Jerez vinegar (Spanish sherry vinegar) 1 cup chopped Italian parsley 2 cups fruity olive oil salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste In a blender or food processor, combine peppers, cucumbers, onion, celery and garlic; purée. Add tomatoes and purée again. Stir in vinegar, parsley and oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and chill. Serve with garnish of choice. |